Sherkin Island, a world away in County Cork
Sherkin Island, historically called Inisherkin (Irish Inis
Earcáin), lies in Roaringwater Bay outside Baltimore in County Cork, Ireland. It
is a very special inspirational place, where tranquillity takes on a whole new
meaning within a 10-minute boat ride of the mainland. One of Carberry’s Hundred
Isles, Sherkin was home to the O’Driscoll Clan whose castle ruins lie just
beyond the pier. We enjoyed our stop immensely. |
|
The anchorage
There is fairly good shelter and a vast anchorage just off
the main pier to which the ferries from Baltimore tie up.
The substantial pier and a pontoon are attached to a scuttled
barge to which boats can tie up. Fees for tie up are posted on the barge. It
is a very handy place to bring in a dinghy from the anchorage. On weekends, it
can get very busy with day and weekend trippers tying up every which way. |
The Seahorse Marina at Dún-na-Long
Castle is just 50 yards from "The Islander's Rest".
This facility for small boats is available from mid-April to mid-September (weather
permitting). Facilities include mooring, electricity and water, with food and
refreshment at The Islander's Rest. Rate per night: €15.00 to €40.00 (depending
on size of boat). |
|
|
History
People of Sherkin Sherkin once had a population of around
1,000, which started to decline during the Great Irish Famine in the mid-19th
Century. It had a population of 106 people at the time of the 2006 Census,
measures 3 miles long by 1.5 miles wide. |
The oldest archaeological monument on
Sherkin Island is a tiny, box-shaped megalithic tomb at the western end of the
island. Megalithic tombs in Ireland date to approximately 2500BC-2000BC, making
them more than 4,000 years old. Other archaeological remains include two
possible promontory forts dating to c. 500BC-400AD. More recent monuments
include the Franciscan friary which was established in 1460 and Dún na
Long Castle. Both of these lie near the harbour. |
|
|
Most interesting in its modern history
is the Sherkin Island Marine Station and its wonderful programme and
publications. Sherkin Island Marine Station was founded in 1975 by Matt Murphy
and his late wife, Eileen and is run by Matt and his family. The Marine
Station is located on the north-west end of the island on 16 acres. From a
small laboratory of 140 sq. ft., the facility has grown into a large complex of
five laboratories and a library of some 100,000 books, journals, reports, reprints,
together with an herbarium of plants and seaweeds. Unfortunately, it is not
open to the public. |
Unlike many of the offshore islands, Sherkin is rather
multinational with people from all over the world having discovered this
secluded spot a decided to settle here. Although the mainstay of the community
remains Irish, you’ll find residents from America, Australia, Canada, Denmark,
France, Germany, Great Britain and Russia coexisting here. Many are creative
types, including artists, authors, craftmakers, musicians and photographers who
integrate well with the beekeepers and pilots, farmers, fishermen, biologists,
botanists and oceanologists, as well as sailors, teachers and doctors, many of
whom came to conduct research or simply for a holiday and stayed. |
|
|
Things to do
The island is ideal for tranquil strolling and exploring.
Daytrippers tend to head straight for the beach (Silver Strand, Cow Strand or
Trabawn) and stop to visit local exhibitions or Horseshoe Harbour along the way. A
map of the island can be found here although the island is well sign posted. http://www.sherkinmarine.ie/sherkinmap.htm A tarmac road leads from the ferry landing to the south western end of the
island. Wander along past a an overwhelming palette of fuscia and mombretia,
set against rough stones walls that hem in fields of verdant greens. Trees
cascade down over the road providing shelter from the sun and rain along the
way. |
Another road runs from the Abbey, past
the Castle, The Islander's Rest and the Jolly Roger, to The Dock at the
north-eastern corner of the island. Just to the west of Kinish Harbour the main
east-west road forks and another good road runs to Cow and Silver Strands, with
their fine sands and secluded yet safe bathing. A network of footpaths and
tracks enable the visitor to reach the western coast, Horseshoe Harbour and the
lighthouse, but much of Slievemore is difficult to access. En route look for
seals, otters, dophins and porpoises. |
|
|
There is an automated lighthouse tended
by local residents that dates back to 1835 on Barrack Point. It marks the
southern entrance to Baltimore harbour. |
The Sherkin Regatta is the busiest day of the year on the
island when its population swells with sea rowers and their fans. Usually held
on the 3rd weekend in July, it is postponed to August if the weather
does not cooperate. |
|
|
Services
The Sherkin Ferry sails from Baltimore daily. The island has
two pubs, a hotel, B&B, community centre, primary school and a Catholic
church. Sherkin Island runs a fine arts degree course as a result of its
community of accomplished artists. There is no waste collection on the island
so there are no waste disposal facilities, although it does have recycling. |
The Islander’s Rest http://www.islandersrest.ie/ is the
first hotel and bar one can access from the harbour. It has a spectacular view
and nice rooms. It offers basic but pleasing accommodation and food. The staff
are very friendly. In fact everyone we met on Sherkin Island was astoundingly
friendly. We had multiple people stop us to ask where we had sailed from and
where we were heading.
Jolly Roger Tavern is situated high up overlooking the
harbour. It’s terrace seating is delightful and Darragh made us feel so
welcome. The Jolly Roger serves seafood and French cuisine. We had a lovely
lunch off the bar menu including soup and sandwiches with a range of fresh
fillings and choice of bread. The lobster at the Jolly Roger being the freshest
in Ireland is true legend. Apparently it takes at least a half hour because
himself has to run down to the dock to haul one out of a lobster pot and bring
it back to be cooked. No worries though, the French chef Jean’s chowder will
sustain you during your wait.
Gannett’s Bay at Horseshoe Cottage, situated within 7
minutes walk of the pier facing south above Horseshoe Bay, is a delightful bed
and breakfast. It is their schooner Anna M. which is careened against the old
pier. Fiona and Joe Aston will welcome you heartily. http://www.gannetsway.com/ |
|
Useful links
|